stitchselectorTHE SERGER COMPANION

THE STITCH LIBRARY

Serger & Overlocker
Stitch Guide

Not sure what all those stitches are for? Explore the basics and see when each one can be useful.

01 / 06

4-Thread Overlock

Your versatile all-rounder

Joins fabric pieces while finishing raw edges at the same time. A dependable starting point for garment construction, especially when you want a secure seam with a tidy edge.

COMMON USES

General garment construction · Woven fabrics · Many knit fabrics

FABRICS

Wovens and many knits

KEY THINGS TO KNOW
  • Uses both needles, so the seam has a second line of stitching for security
  • A little wider than a 3-thread finish
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02 / 06

3-Thread Overlock

Great for finishing edges

Wraps the raw edge of fabric for a clean, neat finish. A lovely choice when edge finishing matters more than joining pieces into a strong seam.

COMMON USES

Finishing raw edges · Reducing fraying · Seam allowances

FABRICS

Many wovens and knits

KEY THINGS TO KNOW
  • Uses the left or right needle, which changes the stitch width
  • Less bulky than a 4-thread, but less secure as a seam
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03 / 06

Rolled Hem

For delicate, narrow finished edges

Rolls and wraps a narrow fabric edge for a delicate finish. Often used on scarves, ruffles and light fabrics; test carefully to find a balanced result.

COMMON USES

Scarves and ruffles · Delicate edges · Lightweight fabric

FABRICS

Lightweight wovens and suitable fine fabrics

KEY THINGS TO KNOW
  • Many machines need a lever change or a different stitch finger
  • Looks best on fine, light fabrics
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04 / 06

Flatlock

Flat seams with decorative possibilities

A seam that opens out flat to show decorative threads or create a low-profile join. It is particularly useful when you want the stitch itself to be seen.

COMMON USES

Decorative seam details · Flat joins · Visible stitching

FABRICS

Many knits and suitable wovens

KEY THINGS TO KNOW
  • The seam is pulled open flat after stitching
  • Can be sewn to show ladders on one side and loops on the other
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05 / 06

Narrow Overlock

For lightweight fabrics and neat edges

Makes a slimmer edge finish than a standard overlock. Consider it for lightweight fabrics when you want a tidy edge without too much bulk.

COMMON USES

Fine edge finishing · Lightweight fabrics · Less bulky edges

FABRICS

Lightweight fabrics

KEY THINGS TO KNOW
  • Close cousin of the rolled hem, but the edge does not roll under
  • Good for seam allowances on sheer fabric
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06 / 06

Differential-Feed Gathering

For controlling fabric movement and creating gathers

Uses differential feed to encourage fabric to gather as it passes through the serger. The effect varies widely by fabric and machine, so experiment on a scrap first.

COMMON USES

Ruffles · Controlled gathers · Garment details

FABRICS

Many lightweight and medium fabrics

KEY THINGS TO KNOW
  • Differential feed also helps stop knits from stretching out
  • Lighter fabrics gather more readily than heavy ones
Use the Stitch Selector Read the full guide

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